This is the last stage of the Aussie Camino walk, from the a very largely unknown, small town of Kalangadoo in SE South Australia to the historic Penola.
Last night, we stayed at the K’doo Hilton, Kalangadoo Hotel. While I slept while, sharing the basic room of two single beds with a hand basin, it is by no means a Hilton. However, it served me well for I was grateful to have hot shower and a comfortable bed with a roof over my head. There is a shared shower (one) and a bath tub (and I wondered who would soak in the bath tub) and a toilet. The sleeping quarter was located just behind the dinning room.
We woke up to a very sunny morning. The town at 6am was bathing in glorious morning sun but without a soul in sight, except the pilgrims streaming towards the Kalangadoo Catholic Church, St Joseph (built in 1904).
It is a charming little country church. A group of volunteers cleaned and prepared the church for the Pilgrim mass for this morning. A local, Tom, came early to open up the church. A few locals that hosted the female pilgrims also attended mass with the pilgrims.
The church, I gathered, has not been in use regularly. Kalangadoo population is only about 300, with a small percentage of Catholic. I gathered that the thought of selling the church has been brushed. This is an important stop for the Aussie Camino and I hope that this church can be retained as part of the camino place of worship.
Mgsnr Rob celebrated mass and appropriately put the pilgrims into the right spiritual frame for this final leg of the pilgrimage.
St Joseph’s Church, Kalangadoo
After mass “church Bulletin” from Luke. Tom at the back of the church (infant of the door) came and open
We returned to the Hotel for our $10 cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon and toast and unlimited flow of tea and coffee. We smelt of the salivating fried bacons coming from the kitchen as we went to church. By the time we came back, the plated breakfast were all laid out nicely but was cold as cold. As pilgrims we ate with our breakfast with gusto with conversation running to how to run a country hotel etc. Rob invited Tom back to the Hotel for breakfast thinking that a cooked breakfast could be ordered. He came out of the kitchen with the news that the kitchen was already closed. Instead, Rob end up sharing half of his breakfast with Tom.
Have a laugh!
Then we heard a light hearted event of the night before. The girls were hosted by local catholics. This was pre-arranged by Luke. There were two going to stay around the corner from the hotel. After dinner, they decided to walk to their host house. The number they were looking was 16. In a dark country road, they mistakenly knocked on No. 10, to be greeted by a man. They told the man, innocently that they were pilgrims on the walk checking in. the witty man, obviously not the rightful host, quickly responded by saying that he got a double bed and the girls were welcome to share his bed. The rest of the story were history. Our pilgrims ladies very quickly retreated and went looking, very carefully, for No.16. We all had a good laugh.
As today was the final walk into the historic town, Penola, we were all hanging outside the hotel anxiously wanting to start walking. Chrissy was leading a small group doing the “prep stretch”. I was very pleased to hang around her (every morning) to prime my body with all sorts of stretching. I was no way as flexible as her. Being an ex-ballet dancer and having taken up ballet dancing again, she had an unfair competitive advantage over me. I was happy to see her so fit which means that she will live to a good old age without the risks of severe mobility limitations. Chrissy, thanks for the exercise every morning. My back have been as good as gold. And on this last day, I was confident that I would triumphantly march into Penola without back problem. My chiropractor, Lorriane, would be ever so proud to hear this!
Kalanagdoo to Penola 26km : The overview instruction in the Pilgrim Guide states:
“Very important to wear long pants today! This will become obvious. This is quite a short day but not the easiest”.
Long Pants Paul & sunscreen too
I loved the feel of country town. The air is so crisp and so quiet. We have literally the whole town and the whole road to ourselves. In all that time, there was one person that we encounter, local farmer (I assumed) that drove by at a country speed of 10kmp and stopped for a yarn (a chat).
Before we set , we gathered with ur leader Luke to prepare ourselves spiritually for the walk with our daily meditation and prayer.
Meditation for the Day
Getting to Penola
It was here in 1866 that Mary MacKillop, an outstanding young teacher and Julian Tenison Woods, a priest and brilliant scientist, founded the uniquely Australian Sisters of St Joseph.
They provided a Catholic education, initially for the isolated bush children of Penola. Since then the lives of many throughout Australia and overseas have been enriched and transformed.
“Little did either of us then dream of what to spring
from so small a beginning.”
Mary Mackillop 1891
The Camino Australia is now a reality. The gem of idea has produced a modest harvest from beginnings. There have been a few pilgrimages in Australia: Tasmania, New South wales, Northern Territory, and New Norcia in Western Australia. This is ours for the moment. Maybe it has brought changes in our inner self, or led us from forgiveness to thanks giving.
Aussie Camino Prayer
God of Pilgrims, Saint Mary MacKillop trusted your guidance in her journey of life and deepened her confidence in your will.
May we renew our trust in your Providence to lead us in hope.
May we relish the sacred in the ordinariness of our lives.
May we grow in the fullness of your love and the depth of your mystery.
We ask this through Jesus Christ, the Way, the Truth and the life.”
Amen
Today is the last day for Gus to walk with one more pilgrims before retiring until the next pilgrimage. Yesterday,Peggy and young Keelin had the privilege of Gus walking with them in the sun, followed by rain, sleet and strong wind. Gus had it all from the cliff tops to the sea beach, fro paddocks to pine plantations, winning away quiet country towns.. Today the journey would be along railway tracks and then into Penola.
I was surprised that I was awarded the company of Gus by Peggy and Keelin for three roles : blister busters, weatherman and the Camino paprazi.
I was recognised for my skills as the official camino blister busters. With one case, it was a bit beyond me. Phil’s toenail was bleeding and was about to drop off. I asked one of the pilgrims to get Dr Michael A for a specialist consult. Dr Michael A kindly assisted and agreed that we should wrapped up his toe rather than mess around with the injured toe. I was glad that I was able to help as blisters can spoil the whole walk.
Yesterday’s weather forecast was a bit tricky but was spot on. The other days were straight forward – hot. With yesterday, Peggy was either impressed or horrified by the accuracy of my weather forecast, that the rain of about 5mm would come in at about 11am. It did. Some one commented that it was more than 5mm. I thought so. It was more than what we bargained for when the rain turned into sleet with strong wind. I did not know that I was the “weatherman” for the camino.
However, I would not deny that my photographic enthusiasm must have been just a little bit too noticeable. I hope that the recognition of my role as the “paparazzi” did not mean that I was stalking or harassing any of the pilgrims. You are welcome to enjoy the gallery of photos of our journey in this blog. Please send yours through to be added in.
With that, Gus was pinned onto the back of my day pack to walk with me for the rest of the day.
After the gathering, we were all set to go. It was an enthusiastic start. It was a bit like the crowd rushing off at the City to Beach walk. It was noticeably a faster pace this morning with the subconscious mind focussing on Penola. I have constantly reminded myself during this pilgrimage that it is the journey that counts, not the destination.
Today, I wouldn’t deny that I was focussed on the destination. There was a heightened excitement to get to Penola. We headed east out of town and then we would be heading north, further into Coonwarra region. For anyone that loved red wine, this walk will bring reward of beautiful wine at the bar later today. Today the walk would be flat , across some paddocks with two stretches along the disused railway tracks. The track was opened in 1888 and ceased operation 1985.
It was a lovely morning walk out of town with blue sky without a car on the road. Before long we came to the paddocks. We walked for as long as we could on the paddocks, running parallel to the railway tracks.
Greg is on his way to Penola
I was walking with Peter S and learnt a fair bit life in the country. Peter grew up in the farm and he gave me a first hand insight of life in the country. He is county boy and while I was walking along the coastlines, I also learnt that he was very familiar with the walk. As his Portland parish is not far from the Great South West Walk, he would regularly go for a lovely hike in that part of the world. Peter will be leaving the Portland parish heading to Wendouree (Ballarat) and I am happy for him as he will still be in the country.
Jill walking with others on this track that runs parallel to the disused railway track.
It might be my imagination but the steps were lighter today. I was moving at a sprinting pace. Before long, we were on the railway tracks. The undergrowth was overgrown and the only thing to worry about was snakes. There was a couple of groups ahead of me, John, Jill, Peter, Noel and Chrissy. They were straightening the path ahead of us. At the same time, they would have (I hope) shoo away snakes.
Noel on the railway tracks
I was walking on my own, as Noel and Chrissy were getting further and further ahead of me. Peter was no way to be seen. Behind me was Greg but he must have fallen so far behind that I couldn’t see him.
This gave me an opportunity to walk in silence on this last day. I was in great no hurry but keep moving at a steady pace. It was peaceful and I was in a perfectly safe environment (knowing that the snakes have been shoo away by the leaders of the pilgrims) as I savored this rare opportunity to walk in solitude heading towards Penola.
The Franciscan friar , Father Richard Rohr, describes this process as letting go:
“All great spirituality teaches about letting go of what you don’t need and who you are not. Then, when you can get little enough and naked enough and poor enough, you’ll find that the little place where you really are is ironically more than enough and is all that you need. At that place, you will have nothing to prove to anybody and nothing to protect.
That place is called freedom. It’s the freedom of the children of God. Such people can connect with everybody. They don’t feel the need to eliminate anybody . . .”
Richard Rohr, Healing Our Violence through the Journey of Centering Prayer
Thees words are just mightily powerful.
One of the lessons that will nimble away is the message of declattering and simplicity as the steps forward in my life – materilaistically, physically and emotionally. Looking back hindsight, I over packed for this trip, applying the “just in case” principle. I washed my clothes and socks at the end of each day. Therefore, why did I carry so many extra sets! I only used about 20% of what I brought. I only ate about 10% of the food I packed. It might be a sign of insecurity- the insurance factor- “just in-case”, the need to possess things, not letting go the luxury of everyday living, a big heavy bag with lots of stuff equal to security. Ah..ah.. not anymore. From the physical side, I learnt a few things from John, to carry the minimum. John would be sending his tried and tested packing list for camino. Look out for the list in this blogg. From the spiritual side, I learnt a simple message from my fellow clergy pilgrims: the wonderfulness of silence and peace. (That is a hard act to master!) Dave shared with me the value of silence. Since then I read a bit more about silence.
Learning to have a silence will take a while but I can see the benefits of the discipline. A Benedictine Christopher Jamison of Worth Abbey says it well: “Silence is a gateway to the soul, and the soul is the gateway to God”. There is much to reflect on as captured below:
“God cannot be found in noise and agitation. His true power and love are revealed in what is hardly perceptible, in the gentle breeze that requires stillness and quiet to detect. In silence, God listens to us. In silence, listen to Him. In silence, God speaks to our souls and the power of His word is enough to transform our very being. We cannot speak to God and to the world at the same time. We need the sacred space that silence creates in order to turn our undivided attention toward God even if it is only for a few precious moments of our day.
Many respected persons made it a practice to rise in the night or in the quiet hours of the morning to seek inspiration that comes in silence, Plato, Einstein, and even Jesus Himself. We all should find a time and a place to be in silent prayer. In the Carmelite tradition, the spiritual life is said to have two aims: the first is about our love of God and the second is about God’s love for us. The practice of silence facilitates both of these aims”.
Source: intergratedcatholiclife.org
Now, it was becoming obvious with the cautionary note to wear long pants. The long weeds could cut the leg or caused allergic reaction if you have sensitive skin. I am doubtful whether the long pants could protect me from snakes!
Very very old railway sleeper
While it was not a difficult walk as it was on a flat terrain, I had to watch where I put my foot so as to avoid hurting my weakened ankle. The tracks were covered with small rocks and they looked like granite with reddish color. This track went on for kilometres after kilometres. According to the guide the first stretch of the track was about 2km and the second part of the railway walk was about 3.6km. The end of the walk on the raod would be indicated by a dirt track on the left. When I finally got there, I got off the track and climbed over the fence to get back to the gravel road. Here I threw a stone I picked from the track, at the foot of the fence post as a part of the Camino de Santiago tradition. In the Camino de Santiago, one of the most compelling stop and amazing sight is the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross). Here, pilgrims carry a stone with them and will leave at the foot of the cross. Now the pile of stones and pebbles has grown to a small hill from the hundreds of thousands of stones left by pilgrims over nearly 1000 years. This is a symbolic and powerful tradition, to leave my unnecessary baggage behind.
Back to the throwing the stone at the fence post: I imagined that one day, many years from now, maybe 1000 years on, there will be a pile of rocks at this particular post. A cross eventually will be built as a symbolic gesture for the Aussie Camino pilgrims. This can potentially be another Cruz de Ferro in the land of the Southern Cross. We are the pioneers we have started another Camino tradition.
It was a relief to get back on the dirt track, white as snow. It was a long long straight road, as far as the eyes could see. I knew that when I reached the end of this road, there would be a welcoming by the first arrivals. I journeyed on and on and through the distance, I eventually could see someone in green tops waving away. That was Jill signaling, as she had done many times, that I was not far off.
This was the meeting station for us to regroup before walking as the pilgrims of Aussie Camino Christmas 2014 into Penola. This was a god spot to rest and wait before the rest arrive.
It was a hot day and getting to a shady stop was a welcoming break. I went through the same routine at this stop: taking off the shoes, the socks, airing the feet, giving them a gentle massage and have a drink (with gastrolyte to keep the electrolyte in balance) were all part of the stop. Since I was the first few to arrive, I have the luxury in getting a good rest.
While I was resting, I saw John heading back to the railway tracks. With a big heart, John walked back, in the midday summer sun, to the new “Aussie Camino Cru de Ferro” point to assist the incoming pilgrims. This was a reasonable extra walk. Not many of us have the energy to walk backward, to where we came from.
I nicknamed him “John the baptist (with a lower case “b”)” as he walked with ease in his sandals, even across Euope!!!!. He is a fast walker and he would be ahead of us to “straighten our path” and shoo away the snakes too.
John knew that the remaining pilgrims have to climb over the barbed wire fence and it meant a lot to get a helping hand when you were tired. We saw what barbed wire could do to the shirt, as Paul had his sleeve ripped by the barbed wire while negotiating the fence when he was walking across France. That was the reasons why Luke designed his style (a type of ladder) to ensure that crossing any fence along the paddocks was made easy.
Finally every single pilgrims arrived at the meeting point, at the junction of Kidman Lane and Mount Burr Road.
We were eager as beaver heading into Penola. We were walking along the Riddoch Highway. This highway is named after a Scotsman, John Riddoch, who planted the first vines, laying the rich foundations of Coonawarra’s quality wines. We came to a touristy Penola signpost, meaning that this was a photo opportunity time.
We were eager as beaver heading into Penola, stopping at the important Penola tourist signpost for a photo opportunity.
Suddenly, the tired feet felt lighter as we headed into Penola. Luke led the group and rightfully it was his honour to take us into the town.
This was his third walk, the first was the pioneering and discovery trip to map out the route. The second was this Easter taking the first official group of pilgrims to Penola. And here we were the third Pilgrims group making its triumphant (so I felt) entry into the town.
We first caught a glimpse of the Royal Oak Hotel when we turned the corner, we saw the St Joseph’s Church at the far end. I recognised the church as I was in Penola on the day of her canonisation, 17 Oct 2010. Our cameras started clicking as we finally reached the door steps of the church. We gathered under a big shady tree to congratulate each other. There were a few emotional moments of joy and elation. I felt great that I got to my destination in good physical shape, enjoyed the walk, enjoyed the camaraderie of the pilgrims.
Sis Claire Larkin, Chairperson of the Mary MacKillop Centre Penola was there to greet and welcomed us into the Interpretive Centre. We were ushered out into a lovely cool decking where chairs were pulled out and cold water was served. Every single pilgrims including our support team, Peter, looked happy and proud. I never felt that good, to sit down with a glass of cold water.
Before long we walked another kilometer or so to the Coonwarra Motel to check in for a hot shower, change of clothes before heading back to the Royal Oak Hotel for a drink and dinner.
We were welcomed to a nice cold deck with drink and chairs to sit.
The Three Amigos who laughed their ways to Penola. L-R Andy, Kalee & Tee Ping
For once, we walked leisurely back to the hotel without any day packs. At the hotel, the drinking group grew bigger and bigger as more pilgrims returned, stories were exchanged. I also realized that in less than 15 hours, we would be heading back to our own private world.
L-R Peter, Peggy, Keelin, Tom (local partishioner), Paul and Noel
There is a strong connection of this hotel to Mary MacKillop. Alexander Cameron, uncle of Mary Mackillop, founded the township of Penola and went ahead to open a hotel. He was issued one of the earliest Hotel licences in South Austrlia, during the year of 1848.
“Alexander Cameron and his wife Margaret (nee MacKillop) had moved to the district in 1845 to establish grazing land and lived on Old Penola Station. The couple hired their niece, Mary MacKillop, to work as a governess for their children, and Mary arrived in Penola in 1860 at the age of 18. After briefly returning to her family in Melbourne, Mary MacKillop then travelled to Portland in April 1862 where she worked as a governess and teacher. She returned to Penola in 1866 with her sister Lexie, and met up with another sister, Annie, at the Royal Oak Hotel, which at the time was being managed by their uncle Donald MacDonald. The three MacKillop girls then rented Winella Cottage, which was formerly located in a paddock on the western fringe of the town”.
The word Penola was the local Pinchunga Aboriginal name for ‘wooden house’, which was the term used for the original building located at the rear of the current two-storey hotel built in 1872.
I knew the history of the hotel and I thought it was quite nostalgic to be sitting in the hotel as a pilgrim that has so much link with Mary MacKillop.
RoyalOak Hotel
The dinner was noisy with that many chatters. The adrenaline was still pumping even though the physical walk had ended.
A few speeches were delivered capturing the spirit of the friendship that was formed. I expressed by heartfelt appreciation to Luke for his vision and the physical effort made in mapping out the route. He told me that the day before he made his initial trip, a close friend with valued hiking experience pulled out, citing that the route and the journey was not physically possible. That did create some concern and put a damper as he was a trusted and experienced hiker. There were initially about 10 planning to pioneer the first walk. The final number were down to Luke with two workmates. Three of these visionary and brave men carved the path for us, The Aussie Camino. The initial walk was followed by countless hours of refining the pilgrimage, looking at each of the stages and routes. Luke even drove down to different part of the routes to test walk out new routes, taking the pilgrims off busy road (for safety and for a much peaceful ambiance). He did all these without asking for any returns. I thought it was appropriate that Luke be recognised for his vision and leadership. A big man with such a big heart. We salute you, Luke.
Noel also gave a little speech expressing his message in the context of “Drains and Radiators”. I never heard of this until I met Noel. You can read all about this in the web. There are people who drain you and tires you out. There are people who are warm, generous, and rather give than receiving, they are givers and act as radiators.
This was a timely message for us to return from the pilgrimage as radiators. For many that are already radiating, let them radiates more than ever, to make a bigger difference. Mary MacKillop was and still is acting as a radiator, warming up the hearts of man.
While I was walking, I was reflecting on a simple tips given by my brother, Joe – How to be at peace and be happy, be grateful for what God gives us. The tips are the 3C’s to avoid: Crticise, Compare and Complain. When it is crystalized into such a simple way to look at our lives, it makes sense. Crticising is part of our given talent. The media runs stories after stories as human being we loved these type of stories . By criticising, there is an underlying tone of superiority, that I can see the “Wrong” and I got the solution. The second C is part of human DNA; we always compare, from money, wealth, size of cars (or 4WD- mine is bigger), kids, beauty, etc. The third C is Complaining. The unconstructive criticism, gong on whining. I learnt that these 3 C’s are draining and do nothing in radiating. That came to my mine when Noel was talking about Drains and Radiators. I thought it was timely for the mind to gel these simple thoughts to end the camino.
Much was drank, and much was exchanged. I am glad that all the wine drank were from the local Coonawarra area. Peggy ordered a white, Pinot Gris from Raidis Estate. It was surprisingly very fresh with a light tropical fruitiness. I enjoyed that. I always thought that the Coonawarra is too hot for a nice drop of white. It goes without saying the red is what made Coonawrra world’s famous.
Therefore the Jim Barry wine “The Cover Drive” Cabernet Sauvignon was a enjoyable medium bodied red. Thanks to Noel for shouting the red. Mary Mackillop have chosen well, Penola, as the destination for the pilgrims.
And…. for the special pilgrims, Chrissy is here to entertain her another of her hidden talent (the other person who can sing is David S. I heard him singing at the Port Macdonnell cabin on Sunday night at about 11pm). Watch her sing!
We ended the night with a slow walk back to the motel. You might say that this was a happy ending and it was a happy ending.
We all came for a reason or reasons, as seeker of something. Whether we found all the answers, all or part of, we have achieved in one way or another.
For those that came for the wine in Penola, they got one of the best wines in the world in the town of Penola.
For those looking for adventure, there is a romantic side of hiking through the Aussie outback, from cliff tops to sand dunes, to beaches and through paddocks and deserted country town.
For those seeking physical challenge, it was challenging. It is not like the European camino. The distance between the starting point and destination in Australia are great. There are few or no facilities in between.
For those seeking the light, the spiritual enrichment, the ambiance and the company provided the ideal environment for that to flourish.
For those who just want a walk, to enjoy the whole Camino experience in the Aussie way, this is it and you will not be disappointed.
Go for it. As some wise pilgrims said to me (in the context of the European Camino), “Do not over think about it, just go for it”.
St. Mary MacKillop Camino 